A very simple and very safe older technology that has been almost completely forgotten, so cheap and easy that it’s truly amazing it has been so neglected over the years: Water Injection is a simple system to remove carbon (and coke) from both gasoline and diesel engines; while increasing fuel mileage.
Any gasoline or diesel engine can be made cleaner and less polluting with this system, yet the world seems to have forgotten about it’s existence. In a time when we desperately need to lower our fuel consumption and clean our emissions, now is the time to bring back this old system. (In the sixties many, if not most, big rigs had water injection.)
While water injection is great for fuel savings and for clean emissions in gasoline engines, it is even better at cleaning biodiesel, greasel and greaseoline arrangements. In fact, since alternative fuels deposit more soot, carbon and coke in an engine, water injection is almost indispensable.
Regrettably this methodology is not very well detailed on the Internet. It’s very common when doing a search on the term, “water injection,” to get thousands of “hits” for pages discussing it. But, most of them focus on a type of water injection used in racing engines to give a performance boost. And, most often these use a mixture of chemicals added to the water (usually ether or methanol), and then injected into the fuel system with a complex set of high pressure pumps and injector nozzles. The equipment is often quite expensive and individual components vary widely from one supplier to another.
Happily, you don’t have to be a physicist or rocket scientist to use the old-fashioned, simple water injection system. In many cases, people have made this type of setup using miscellaneous items found laying around their garages. But, even if one has to buy the parts, it’s still cheap (and easy). Like mini-fluorescent light bulbs, by itself, it seems a small, insignificant thing. But, if everyone used it the savings in pollution and fuel costs would be quite surprising.
The particulars are laid out on a page on GreaseolinePlus; geared to promoting a safety manual for do-it-yourself-ers who make their own biodiesel and alternative diesel fuels. It’s couched in hillbilly humor and sprinkled with southern colloquialisms, but the information is there free of charge for anyone who wants to pursue it. By the way, if one is interested in making their own diesel fuels, the “Hillbilly” safety book offered on the site is a great place to start. It uses the same straightforward approach as the page on water injection.
It’s based on the fundamental principle that the topic should not be presented as pure science or buried in technical jargon, which tends to make it inaccessible for ordinary people. If greener approaches to everyday living (like water injection, or home-made bio-fuels) are made simple and practical, we stand a much greater chance of promoting and using them.
The how-to linked article fromabove: http://greaseolineplus.com/page2.html
The Water Injection Miracle
A DIVISION OF HILLBILLY GREASEOLINE PLUS
Well us Hillbillies are at it again. After working on biodiesel and greasel at Greaseolineplus.com and fixin up some solar cells, passive solar and alternative fuel heaters, and workin on runnin gas cars on diesel and other diesel alternatives, we’ve turned our Hillbilly technology to WATER INJECTION.
WHAT IS WATER INJECTION ?
Water injection is a very simple and very safe older technology that has almost been forgotten. It is so cheap and easy that it is a miracle that it got lost in time. You can probably build it for free and even if you buy the parts, it’s still cheap (and easy). And it increases your fuel mileage on gasoline or diesel engines and cleans the engine and the emissions. If everyone used it the savings in pollution and fuel costs would probably be in the billions. We don’t know exactly how much because, after all, we’re just hillbillies and them thar statistics are hard to cipher. But it’s very green, very easy, very cheap and will help you pass emissions tests and save you fuel. It also adds extra power. We even wanted to put one on our mule when we hitched her up to the plow but she wouldn’t have it (probably because she’s been exposed to them thar feminist ideals).
While water injection is great for fuel savings and for clean emissions it is even better at cleaning BIODIESEL, GREASEL AND GREASEOLINE arrangements. In fact since alternative fuels deposit more soot, carbon and coke in an engine, water injection is almost indispensable if you ain’t using store bought fuels. Or even if you are buying alternative fuels at a store you still should have water injection. We hillbillies consider it as big a necessity as a still and a corn cob pipe, if’in yer running bio fuels that is. Hell, every vehicle will be helped by water injection if’in y’all want better mileage and cleaner emissions. Well, all right, I’ll stop beating around the bush and get right to how you can make it f’r yerself. Here it is with most of it recopied from other stuff us hillbillies wrote. Sorry if it repeats some. That happens when we’ve been working out on our still.
WATER INJECTION THEORY AND COMPONENTS
Water injection probably should be placed on every diesel and gasoline vehicle and it used to be a common feature on many big diesel rigs. Regrettably, at present, most parts men and many mechanics have either not heard of it or are not clear about it.
Water injection is a simple system to remove carbon, (and coke) from your vehicle and to increase fuel mileage. Any gasoline or diesel engine would be made cleaner and less polluting with this system, yet the world seems to have forgotten about it’s existence. In a time when we desperately need to lower our fuel consumption and clean our emissions, it is time to bring back this old system. Regrettably this methodology is not even detailed well on the internet (we aim to fix that soon). Alternative fuel systems can create more carbon than regular diesel and so can be helped more by water injection than other systems.
Before we continue, let’s define a few words for Ya’ll. CARBON is a form of dirt that can mess up any internal combustion engine. It can cause poor performance, dirty emission and poor gas mileage. Carbon is removed with water injection. SOOT is the black smoke you see coming out of a diesel rig. It has all the bad attributes of carbon and it also has carbon in it. It can get in the oil of a diesel and cause damage or it can cause Coking or it can cause carbon deposits on the piston and cylinder walls. COKE is what is made when fuel and carbon mix. It’s in your encyclopedia. Coke can ruin a diesel engine and it will not help a gasoline engine. Alternative fuels in a diesel cause more coke, and all greasel and greaseoline arrangements will eventually be ruined with coke unless you protect them with water injection. Water injection helps fuels burn in internal combustion engines and helps against soot, carbon and coke. Often it will remove all of the carbon deposits, and we think it removes all of the Coke deposits if’in they ain’t too bad. Or more likely there probably will not be any coke deposits if you have water injection.
In the sixties many, if not most, big rigs had water injection. You must not pass water through the fuel injectors so the water (or more accurately water vapor) is fed into the intake manifold of a diesel or gasoline engine. The method to do this is so simple that a good handyman can build it in an hour or less. It works because, with the addition of water vapor, the carbon deposits change temperature and expand quickly enough to be blasted off of the cylinder wall, thus cleaning the engine and the emissions, and improving efficiency. Many mechanics in the old days would squirt water from a water pistol into carburetors to clean an engine, but water injection works better and improves mileage. It can be put on every engine that I’ve ever heard of and it actually works a little better on gasoline engines than on diesel. (If you can’t wait to get water injection the squirt gun will work for you a little and you can do that today).
Straight water placed into any engine would fill the combustion chamber and ruin the engine, so water vapor is used. An overuse of water would be called over hydration and it must be avoided. It is easier to over hydrate a diesel engine though it is more common to use water injection on a diesel than on a gasoline engine because it helps diesel engines more.
Imagine a plastic bottle (like a radiator overflow tank) with a tight seal on the top (if it doesn’t have a tight seal, make it tight, with a rubber gasket). A tube or hose should be placed someplace on the top of the bottle or in the cap. Another tube or hose should be placed at the bottom of the bottle with the inlet just inside the bottom. Tube mountings of this kind are common on radiator overflow tanks. The other end of the bottom hose, should be placed above the bottle or, at least, even with the top of the bottle. Now, mount the bottle in the engine compartment and fill it ¾ of the way with water. It must be mounted below the valve cover/rocker cover to prevent watergetting into the valve cover. On a gasoline engine, run the tube from the top of the bottle to vacuum on the intake manifold. Let the other tube run from the bottom of the bottle to atmosphere above the bottle. Now when the engine is started, the vacuum tube to the intake manifold will suck air out of the top of the water bottle which should be filled 3/4s with water (or a little more than 3/4). The only way the air can be replaced is if it comes through the other tube which runs out the bottom of the bottle to the atmosphere above the bottle. This will make a roar of bubbles in the air chamber coming from the bottom tube. When the bubbles burst on reaching the top of the water, each bubble will propel a near microscopic droplet of water into the air chamber. With hundreds, or thousands, of droplets bursting on the surface, the air chamber will become super humid. It will become so wet that the air chamber will be all water vapor. The water vapor will of course be sucked into the intake manifold. Thus, water injection has been achieved without using the fuel injectors. Dirty emissions, soot, carbon, pollution and coke, will all be removed or at least be greatly decreased. Note: There is another kind of water injection that goes through injectors placed in the intake, but that is a racing application for power. Our water injection will add some power, but that is not its main purpose.
Well, that’s it if you’re working with gasoline though we will give more information on where to buy the equipment later on down the page*. Now, if you have a diesel, it will all still work -you'll just have to rig it differently.
On a diesel engine, what I have described above becomes only slightly more complicated. Since diesel engines have less room in the combustion chamber when the piston is at the top, too much water can fill this small area. No, I’ve never heard of it happening, and as long as one leaves some air in the bottle, it should not happen. But, one should know of the possibility so as not to over hydrate a diesel engine. This same condition is possible on a gasoline engine, but there is a greater protection from the larger space when the piston is at top dead center. Using a clear tube to the intake manifold will give you an idea of how much water you are putting through your system. If you have (just a few) tiny droplets of water on the walls of the tube, it’s enough.
The other slight difficulty, to be addressed with a diesel engine, involves the nature of the vacuum in a diesel manifold. This vacuum is much less than in a car and can seem to be almost non-existent. Therefore, the system described above will work as explained only on diesels with turbo chargers. Here you place your vacuum line on the high vacuum side of the turbo charger. You will know if you have hooked it to the right side by whether or not there is a roar of bubbles in your bottle. If you can’t get a roar of bubbles you will have to do it as it is described immediately below.
In diesels without a turbo charger (like mine) you need to blow your water vapor into the intake manifold. I used the bypass gasses in the valve cover/rocker cover assembly to do this. This is accomplished by hooking the tube from the bottom of the water bottle (the one usually running to atmosphere) to the rocker cover. Of course you must be sure that by harnessing the blowby gasses in the rocker cover you do not create pressure in the rocker cover or too much pressure in your bottle. You may blow seals unless you keep an extra vent. I addressed this by having two vents for the rocker cover. The tube from the rocker cover goes to a T fitting, with one passage to the water bottle and one to atmosphere. What I don’t use goes out the other side of the T fitting to atmosphere (running a tube to below the car). Thus there is a vent so that when pressure is built up in the water bottle the blowby gasses would not build up in the rocker cover. Yes, oil from the blowby does get into my water bottle but it has never caused any trouble and no significant amount of oil seems to get into the intake manifold. Of course, if it did, it wouldn’t hurt anything. I make sure that there is no hiss of air when I turn off the engine so that I am sure that I have not created too much back pressure. I listen for the hiss when I shut it off. Hiss time should be less than one second though it need not be non existent.
In the 70s, when engines had a lot of trouble with carbon deposits, I used to whip up water injection for my customers in short order from old window washer bottles or radiator overflow bottles (Hillbilly ingenuity). If you don’t want to make your own water injection bottle you can buy a radiator overflow bottle to make water injection. But you have to be careful that you don't buy the wrong one or you'll loose what you spent because many of them won't work. Or later we’ll tell you how to buy a water injection bottle from us, complete with instructions, pictures, and all the fixins*.
Build it in your pole barn, or buy one from us*, but any which way you go, water injection will afford some protection for your diesel from sooting up or coking, and it will increase fuel mileage and help you pass emissions tests, all the while helping to keep the environment clean. And, of course, it works even easier on gasoline. The green aspect may be the most important. All this is so easy that if you have even a little green in you the benefits are obvious. Impress your sweetheart (or your almost-sweethart), or your friends, by showing 'em you’re green. Either way, with something this easy and cheap, it’s hard to go wrong.
Now, sit back and enjoy your cleaner, more efficient engine and your cleaner emissions and improved mileage. Mother earth will love you for it. And those dudes at the emissions testing station will pass you. (They might be impressed, too - if’en they ain’t soul dead.)
Now who said you can’t get it for free? The above information is enough to build it yourself, though we offer no guarantee that you will get it right, there are just too many variables. Still, it ain’t hard for a country boy, or girl, who’s good with a wrench.
We do understand that some folks don't have the time to build a bottle for themselves. Shucks, everyone can't be a relaxed hillbilly with a pole barn full of mechanical odds and ends and lots of time on their hands. For y'all what don't want to build it your self, or if you fear buying one of the wrong botles that will not work, we will send you one with directions and all the fixins'. With our directions, you (or your mechanic) will be able to hook it up fast and easy. So that's what we're selling here. it's free if you want to make it from the above directions. Or, if you want us to send you a water injection bottle with extra fixins, pictures, kit and directions, you have to give us some money. Hell, the farm don't pay enough for us to give 'em away!
Be green. Be cool, Be smart. Save fuel money. Save mother earth from bad emissions. Pass emissions tests - And be as smart as a hillbilly. Get water injection and impress your friends. Then go hug a hillbilly, cause even us ridge runners need love.
HEY LOOKY HERE! We recently broke down a diesel that had used our water injection. Yes, it does keep the combustion chamber clean of carbon and deposits. And so avoids the main problem with the alternative fuel that was being used for three years. There was some carbon, but the owner had stopped putting water in the water injection bottle, and that may be the reason there was any carbon at all. Even so, it was quite clean over all. We did also find that, in the area above the combustion chamber, it was not as clean as in the combustion chamber, itself. So, we talked to all our hillbilly diesel mechanic friends, and here's what we got: On most engines, the chamber above the combustion chamber can be cleaned out by taking out the injectors once or twice a year and cleaning the small chamber below the injector. (The combustion chamber, itself, will be clean from the water injection.) They all said this would be jim-dandy, and clean as a whistle washed in white lightnin. Direct injection, which has no "above" chamber, would not even need the manual cleaning, and in these cases, the water injection alone would do the trick. We're pretty sure. Yep. Golly - and Gol-Darn.
****We mentioned serveral times above that we'd sell ya the bottle and fixins for this-here. But, shucks - we just got a little ahead of ourselves. Truth is - we aint quite ready to start shipping this stuff jest yet. So, check back here in a couple o'shakes, and we'll have an exact description and price. You can also drop us a line - For postal mail: Greaseoline Plus, PO Box 12, DeSoto, IL 62924. For e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org . Let us know you're interested, and we'll let you know as soon as the kits are available. At that time, we'll also have it on our on-line ordering page if you want to come back and use a credit/debit card or your Pay Pal account.
Other stuff thats a-commin' soon:
A Jim Dandy, water run, fuel line heater for diesels. This is an essential item for Greasel systems, and almost essential for Greaseoline systems and hybrid systems. If you ain’t got one, you ain’t ready for winter. A car running on regular diesel will be helped by this as well, if you’re far enough north to be considered a Yankee. By the way, to us Southerners, a Yankee is just like a quickie, but a fella does it when he’s alone.
And, of course, we also can get you extensive directions on how to build alternative fuel systems (info on Biodiesel, Greasel & Greaseoline) plus info on home made heating oil (yes I’m serious). F’r this go to www.greaseolineplus.com
Good luck to Ya and Ya’ll come visit us again sometime.
Hm. Seems feasible I wonder...